First Pictures

Below will be a series of a few photos, they are in no particular order, as its whatever i have happened to do first. I have basically started from the beginning and am working through.

Here is a photo (not good photo) of one of the first gorillas of the habituated group i saw. this is a juvenile male named Essekerende. He is about 6 years old and the child of an adult female called Malui. he was just eating termites, locally called 'Kusu'. they snap parts of the termites nest on the side of the tree, and tap against their hand. The juicy worker termites fall out and then are eaten. Its really cool to see the whole process.

This photo is nothing special just one of the few flowers around, as it was full dry season whilst i was there and hence little growing

This sweet little fellow was to be regularly found on the door to my room, and is incredibly quick moving. He is probably only a thumbs length so maybe 10cm but the speed is most disconcerting.

The following photos are of camp (Bai Hokou) The picture aboveshows the 'kitchen' and fire in the centre where all the cooking gets done.

this is the main entrance up in the centre and to the right of the previous photo.

I wont insult your intelligence!

I will post more soon. just have been preoccupied with getting job /car etc.

Paper Debut

Hi all
I am now back in the UK. For many various reasons i have finished early. I will now endeavor to slowly put up photos and stories of interest to you all. below is a scanned copy of myself in the western morning news newspaper, which was printed shortly after i left for the CAR. I personally like the article with the exception of the photo of me, where i look particularly young, and hence suspect a possible image processing, ie Air brushing!!

I am in the process of sorting photos, but as i took a couple there are many to get through. SO please be patient. I recon i will have alot done by early next week. click image for larger.

Quick message

Hi all just a quick post while i have access to the Internet but as I'm on my iPod it makes things a little difficult in comparison to a keyboard. Anyway I apologise about the lack of posts the lat month I was meaning to write one while in camp but kept forgetting but never mind. I will soon be able to upload images for people as I will have permanent Internet acess as I shall be returning to camp shortly as in tomorrow in fact. This will probably come as a shock to many of you. The reasons for this I shall fill you in a later stage but the 3 months has been good and wouldn't swap then for the world just feel that returning home is the correct thing for me. Anyway I shall be in contact with many of you shortly so hold your thoughts till then as I look forward to a catch up tale from everyone with a good one. Ur tales don't have to be as dramatic as being charged by a big bull elephant so don't
worry!! Take care and will post again in a matter of days,
wish me luck with travelling back as my journey was not ideal to say the least! Lets hope the European leg is more mundane.

Happy new year

Blog 30/12/09

Hi all, firstly hope you all has a wicked Christmas and have reasonable if not big plans for the new year. There have been quite a few interesting tales since my last update, so this could turn out to be a long one. I'll try to be as succinct as possible. So basically out here has been very haphazard with the number of people. One day it will be just me, the next day, with many. However I shall begin from the start which is basically before Christmas. For Christmas, I/We organised a Christmas party on xmas eve for all the remaining trackers and assistants. The other volunteers from the other camp and all the researchers came to Bai Hokou for this party. We made pizza , played music, drunk beer, danced and smoked. Late into the evening after many of us had drunk too much and smoked too much, a forest spirit (Matanga) came out of the forest. A traditional Bayaka party custom, this particular spirit is the tree spirit, and is a huge dancing talking bush that dances to the drumming and beating of the Bayaka. Its all very surreal but wicked good fun. Considering this year was the first year i'v been away from family and out of the Uk, I wasn’t looking forward to it. Il be honest, I wouldn’t say it was amazing, but it was definitely different. Don’t think I would have had a dancing bush in the UK. I think that being away from the Uk for xmas is something people should definitely do at least once. It does put into perspective the time over xmas with family. I think that its just lucky I know that xmas isn’t the only time my family will get together. So as I was effectively in charge being the only volunteer in camp and only semi responsible person left, I had to get up first thing the next day after the party. I was just glad that I started the party early for my own sake. When I say I woke early, I got up at 5.45am the standard time here just as sun rises. I then tidied the party and headed into the forest in the afternoon to the Gorillas (the ones you actually get to see, not the unhabituated ones!).

I must admit Christmas day was a memorable day with the gorillas. Often they are very inactive and sleep a lot. So I expected a slow afternoon. Fortunately for me however, a particular gorilla called Mossoko Abuli (literally means big head in Bayaka) is a charactersome gorilla. He is continually eating, so I feel I have some common ground with him. Anyway cutting a long story short, it was the first time in which a gorilla has come particularly close on its own accord, and ended up feeding in a tree directly above me within a couple of metres if that. Was particularly cool.

Wildlife out here recently had an upswing with many sudden sightings of cool things often at unusual times. Firstly was a group of Red river hogs we came across while tracking the unhabituated group, which we sneaked up on and observed only metres away again. They were completely oblivious to us, and as there funky looking pigs particularly cool to see (look on google). I also recently went on a Bai Tour and saw numerous elephants again, but for the first time was able to stop and see the Forest Buffolo that are found in the Bais. They are also cool looking, but particularly quick and particularly aggressive and hence we stayed at least 100m plus from these 22 individuals. The coolest however was one night while reading. I was reading in the dark form my ipod, when I saw movement ahead of me. I stopped quietly and saw this catlike creature walk past, similar size to a domestic cat at a guess just longer and shorter. I thought it was a mongoose, but later realised by its blotchy dappled fur that it was some form of a Genet. Mainly nocturnal carnivore that is incredibly silent and hence very illusive. I have a feeling it comes to the same place daily as I go that I think was it yday also. A sad thing was found 2 days ago also, a juvenile elephant was found dead in the nearby Bai, fortunately it appears to have died from some natural cause rather than poached. But when we found it, it was probably a few days old and hence had started decomposing already, never a nice sight. I have also still been pursuing my learning of Sango, which is now starting to pick up speed, especially as I can now have a laugh and a conversation with the trackers, making the waiting hours in the forest much more exciting. But still major issues when it comes down to anything unusual in the conversation, I look moronic and just stare in silence. Fortunately they realise this and just laugh at me. I shall finish this blog with yesterdays vast events. I say vast because it considers elephants.

Elephants in camp. I was cooking spaghetti and just finishing by straining it, when I noticed a particularly large shit in the middle of the camp. Never a good sign. I then saw the devastation one elephant had caused the night previous. I found this thought highly amusing and continued with the day. Then after dinner that evening, I was watching some film or reading or something, when I heard loud screeching and shouting from the Bayaka. The elephant had returned and was back in the same area. It was scared off by the Bayaka only for another elephant to return 2 – 3 hours later. Waking me from my dosing sleep, I started wondering how many could possibly come. The answer is another 2. We ended up with another 2 or 3 in camp at 3.30 am back in the same place eating our trees and destroying parts of buildings. The problem is now that there is a massive hole in the fenceline that all the elephants know about. Im sat here at 7 pm awating for our next guest to turn up…… who knows!!! Anyway I had little sleep continually hearing noises thought to be elephants. So this better not continue.That’s all for now, so take care and have few southern comforts for me over new years! Il be having headache hangover inducing beer! I miss my southern comfort and my pasties!!! ……and gammon! In fact many different things largely involving food and drink!
Take care and Seasons wishes Dean x

day to day life

Hi

All I just realised that I havent sent through an update lately, hence this one now. The problem is its been so long, I cant even remember what was in the last one. I think it covered going to Bayanga and a few times in the forest. So to any recent goings on.
The first thing is an interesting experience with an elephant. A couple of weeks back, during the night, one intelligent elephant, entered the camp through the camp gate, stuck its trunk into a couple of empty buildings, and then took a liking to Daniela’s house. It decided to stick its trunk in through her window while she was sleeping. The very same elephant did this same thing 3 months previous, so looks like it may be a common occurance from now on. There has been very little particularly noteworthy experiences out here lately, as time just ticks on and the work just continues. Apologies for the lack of exciting stories but day to day conservation work is actually quite repetitive and requires great patience. There have been some lovely moments.

Recently I went into the forest to the Gorilla with Daniela when the gorillas went to a nearby Bai on a sunny day. It was a beautiful afternoon and the gorillas headed to a nearby clearing known as Bai’s or Salines. As the area is so open you can see the gorillas easily without needing to get close. It’s the only real time you can see the entire family in an area together. Normally the dense forest hides most of the other group members. This day however it was cool, seeing the mother and her children largely spending time with one another. The kids playing in the sun, while the big father, Makumba sits back from the edges and oversees his family. It was quite reminiscent of a big family outing to the beach. Just with a husband and his 3 wives and 7 children, 1 from a former partner. Oh and very hairy family! However despite these amazing views etc, photography was actually rubbish. The light was incredibly harsh and very bright, and as gorillas are so dark in colour, most of my photos were rubbish. This actually put quite a big down on the day but was still good to see them in this manner.
There has been a few nice sitings of other animals also. Recently I saw a large adult deiker, one of the 4 species, I cant remember which one however. It seemed quite oblivious to us and just carried on with its normal behaviour despite us being only a 10m away or so. I also recently saw a mongoose (a slender one apparently) which just popped out from behind a fallen tree, looked at us and carried on. This was until the tracker in front of me decided to scare the mongoose, much to my great annoyance. Only moments before this Mongoose, another deiker had walked aimlessly behind us, but got scared at the sight of us. And the other large species Iv seen, well heard, was one of the river hogs or potamogeur in French and Ngoya in Bayaka. It grunted at the sound of us and walked on by. As these can be quite aggressive we did not move towards it for fear of being skewered. That’s about the major stuff going on but if I think of something Iv missed Il let you guys know.

Currently there are only 4 people including myself in camp excluding the trackers and the local assistants who tend to keep to themselves. One fo these will be leaving to head home tomorrow. It is now coming up to Christmas, a time of joy to most. Being out here may mean I have the most unusual xmas to date. I will be having a few beers and pizza for dinner probably. We may have a small party but wont be anything to extreme I would imagine. Some time on the 25th my main company of 2 will be departing, having ended their research. This means that I will be the only English speaker out here for upto 11 or 12 days, which could be extremely difficult and hard going at times. Due to this any emails would be greatly received. HYPERLINK "mailto:bai.hokou@uuplus.com" bai.hokou@uuplus.com is the address. Just don’t send attachments as download is limited. Anyway hope all are well and have a lovely Christmas and a new year to remember. Just remember to have a Southern Comfort for me as I cant have one. Only access to beer, which is amazing but southern would go down much better.
Regards all
Dean

THE Visit to Bayanga!>

Recently there have been some very interesting experiences out here, some that have been just hard going and arduous, others that have been much more pleasurable. All however interesting none the less.
I recently had to go to Bayanga, the local town (1 1/2 hours drive away by 4x4). I had to go as i had been requested to meet the project members and the local authorities, and introduce myself/ourselves (as other researchers and volunteers were also requested). The first interesting part was the travel from Bai Hokou camp to Bayanga. It began with a drive in a Toyata Pickup 4x4 trip with 9 people plus luggage through narrow muddy tracks for many ours coming across tree falls after recent storms, blocking the road and low hanging branches. Many of these low lying branches taken at speed, meaning hiding and dodging them was almost a risky but exciting game to play. On many occassions i lost, and got a branch in the face or in one case a spiky thorny branch across the ear! This was made all the more fun by listening to rock music while thorughout the journey. The car was extremely full and people brimming from the sides!

We arrived in Bayanga at sunset, with no rooms or anything as our arrival was completely unexpected! This meant there was no food or drink to be found. Bayanga is not a place to go wandering after dark, as drunkeness and crime are a common feature at night.....actually drunkeness is a common feature during the day too.

So with this in mind we set out for food into the town at night with no idea of where we were going or how to get back! The place was still really busy and very interesting as to me the lively and friendly atmosphere was largely absent at this time. After buying very little food but some we gave up and headed back, with manioc flower to make Guso (local dough like food) and sweet bananas for dinner. Another 'interesting' experience! The next day brought around a vist to the market in the light, and wholly better experience, but still not what i would call pleasurable. It involved being stared at constantly, and asked for money regularly. however i persisted and looked around, not really requiring much, i mainly window shopped to know what can be bought in the future. The answer is not alot!!!

I will keep my opinions of Bayanga limited here, as my opinions could change.....but they certainly cant get much worse. I just dont enjoy spending time there, and relaxing on my 'veranda' outside my room at Bai Hokou is much more relaxing.> > The next day we were to be introduced to the people! Who these people are i still dont know, mainly because all the introductions and talking was done in French, a language i cant only mildly not understand to heavily understate! Either way these were highly repetitive and clearly the joy and pleasure shown was clearly fake and just words rather than genuine care! But isnt that just what most of these things are like. Either way we went round numerous people and saw numerous faces. now this is done, i may not need to go to bayanga now for a while! (i hope at least).> > The return journey on thursday was certainly what could be described as interesting! Once again the car was loaded up, but even more this time, and also with an extra couple of people. So if i thought the Outward journey was uncomfortable and an experience, i had another thought coming. The journey consisted of half sitting on raffia leaves for roofing, while half not in the car at all and mostly almost always felling as if i were falling out of the car! It was really amusing and i loved both journeys, far more than the time spent in the town! If i do it again i will try to ensure on getting images of us in the car. One person was taking pictures, which i shall try and get copies of.> >

After waiting in the dark as stuff fell off the car for a few hours in the middle of the forest with dangerous elephants near by, we returned to the camp!> > The following day was ok, but nothing too exciting.Saturday however, was a wicked day! A day that involved lots of different things and things i havent seen. It was only any other day habituating the gorillas. But all the contacts up to now have been non visual and i havent seen anything. Today i saw 2 gorillas while they barked aggressively at us, which get the adrenaline going for sure. I also saw a forest buffalo really up close, which was cool, collected faecal samples of elephant and hog for one of the researchers, and also saw a tiny inch long mouse in the middle of the forest. I watched the bayaka find make and prepare a plant to make twine for jewellery out of, and saw a monkey very well in the forest. I shall try and find out the species, but there are truly hundreds. Today was a really good day, with a nice contact with the gorillas, and decent time spent in the forest with the bayaka and the animals within the forest.> > So lets hope many days from now on continue to be this good, as time flew today, despite having lots of waiting around for the Gorilla contact. (can only make contact every few hours otherwise you scare the gorillas too much)> > Anyway all that is all for now.> > Regards
Dean

Hi all

i still have no real access to the internet, only access to email, but not even my own email, hence my mum is updating the blog for all your pleasure. I have now been out here,almost 2 weeks, only a possible 50 odd to go! Its all going ok out here and i am still alive and not dying. However, my feet are in pieces with bites and stings and cuts and grazes. I will give a quick rundown of the project etc....

I shall start with the camp. Accomodation is huts, with idividual rooms, with palm covered roofs. Ther very basic, with mesh windows to stop the worst of the insects, but big gaps in the floor, above the 'windows' and under the door largely makes this effort pointless. but is does stop the largest insects from getting in! But fortunately, there arent as many large spiders and bugs as i thought! But there are a few freaky spiders and fake spiders and freaky cricket like things! also cockroaches are unfortunately everywhere, hence a permanent mosquito net is over the bed and sleeping stuff. Mosquitoes havent been and apparently arent much of a problem in general here, but there are a few, but are unlikely to carry Malaria due to no host population being near.

The toilet is a drop toilet with a hole, and the shower is indeed a very cold waterfall. It is refreshing after a day of being in the forest, but not really very relaxing if you want to spend sometime thinking like im used to doing in the shower!The novelty of a waterfall has indeed run its course and now its in and out as soon as possible. Cooking is on an open wood fire so plenty of time to be a pyromaniac!!! I cooked properly last night for the first time and Daniela the only person currently in camp, seemed very happy with its taste! Food is ok to me, but we apparently do buy what in this country is considered luxury items and hence are expensive. We use the luxury 'sweetcorn' and luxury 'pasta'as our staple foods. It is all tinned by the way and shipped in, hence the large price.

The forest here is much drier than Borneo and much less humid, but it is currently coming into the dry season, so its to be expected. The forest is ok to walk in, but does have some really annoying spikey plants that rip your feet to pieces, if youve chosen to walk in sandals, which is more comfortable in some cases! i think il stick to non cut but hot feet and stick to the boots!

There are three sides to the project here really, the already habituated gorilla group called the Makumba group now used for research and tourist purposes, the Agile Mangabeys which are largely habituated also for the tourism and research, and then the new group which is in the process of being Habituated (the Fini Group, Fini means 'new' in Bayaka(local language of the tracker tribes) apparently). Strangely i find the new group better, it involves alot more walking, and much less gorillas. But basically, you track them using the incredible local trackers, then get close enough, then make 'contact' where you dont even see the gorillas they see you and leg it, usually letting out loud barking roars in the process!! The Makumba group involves basically watching the group and taking down basic bits of information. the fini group is what im out here to do, so probably a good job i prefer it of the two gorilla things. The mangabeys is a kinda side project that the trackers tend to do the data collection and habituation of.

Thats basically the work and the camp etc. The quality of the forest here is exceptional, however, to me (comparing it to Borneo) it seems much less active and less buzzing with life, but considering its the dry season that may be why. hence photography is slow, but im taking the camera out every so often into the forest, usually when im with the Makumba group, as its largely pointless taking it to the Fini Group.

Anyway, hopefully at some time, we may get the net, or i may get access to internet properly and may be able to upload images or something!

The final word shall be that I do hope all are well, working hard, not working too hard, partying hard, not partying too hard, relaxing, not relaxing too much or finding a job. whichever of the list applies to you most and i would be most likely to say, please use, but applying to all, i hope everyone is happy and content and making the utmost of the time they have!

take care all

Go nzoni!(means go well in Sango, i think its a great way to say bye to someone)

Dean

PS if you want to email me, i cant get it at the moment, but if you leave comments on the blog, my mum may send them onto me!